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I have seen every city I have ever loved and lived in destroyed by aliens, human folly, climate disaster, or other catastrophe. Tokyo is no exception. I’ve watched Godzilla obliterate Japan’s capital on multiple occasions. But it was the anime classic “Akira” that introduced me to an ultraviolent, dystopian version of the world’s largest metropolis. In reality, Tokyo is the cleanest and most quiet city I have ever lived in. It is also the safest place I’ve ever called home.
I like to regale fellow New Yorkers with tales of leaving my handbag at an empty table and then traipsing off to order coffee, confident that my belongings will be exactly where I left them. I relish confounding laid-back Californians with accounts of items lost and returned no matter said item’s monetary value. Such was the case when a long-lost train pass holder turned up nearly a year later at a far-flung koban with ¥2000 (about $20) in emergency cash still tucked behind my youngest son’s Pasmo card. It was also the case when I left a sturdy white bag with an instantly recognizable silver, produce-shaped logo and the NIB contents contained within, on a hook under a table at an eggslut in Shinjuku. The hit television show “Old Enough!”, offers concrete proof to support my previously dismissed claims that even the youngest children routinely navigate Japan safely, without adults.
I like to regale fellow New Yorkers with tales of leaving my handbag at an empty table and then traipsing off to order coffee, confident that my belongings will be exactly where I left them.
The resounding exclamations of incredulity from fellow Americans when I describe these experiences fall more in line with the response one might expect had I declared a successful free solo ascent of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park rather than a simple admission that I enjoy the occasional solo walk at night, without fear for my personal safety.
Of the many, many experiences that took my breath away when I first moved to Japan, it is perhaps the absence of gun violence that surprised me the most. This was in part because I never realized what a tremendous weight the ever-present possibility of violence (in the form of mass shootings, active-shooter school lockdowns, or random traffic stops gone terribly wrong) was until it became, more or less, a nonissue.
In Tokyo, my children frequently navigate public transportation by themselves, traveling to school or to meet friends at some designated point along the way. In some ways, this is similar to the way I grew up in New York City. By my final years of elementary school, I was a pro at riding public transportation by myself. The big difference, of course, is context. I grew up in Brooklyn in the 1980s and ‘90s, which necessitated a heightened sense of awareness and a particular subway etiquette or way of being. I’m not saying Brooklyn was as bad as the fictive streets of Neo Tokyo in “Akira” but I am saying I wouldn’t have batted an eye if I saw one of these dudes on the subway either:
Though my high school alma mater is just minutes from Lincoln Center, students passed through metal detectors every morning to gain entry to the building. Removing my earrings and tucking them away was common practice during my daily commute whenever Decepts, a local gang that carried hammers as their weapon of choice, were rumored to be on the subway as well. (Decepticons, it’s worth noting, borrowed their moniker from a hugely popular cartoon series that started with a toy — made in Japan.) To counter the inaccurate singular narrative that violence is a core value of hip-hop and youth culture a vibrant anti-violence movement emerged. Violence and the threat of violence are never the whole picture.
The Columbine High School massacre occurred the year after I graduated from college. Less than a decade later, I would become a parent for the first time. I will never forget the moments of anguished silence shared by every single adult waiting at the school bus stop to collect and hug our children on the day we learned about Sandy Hook. Soon thereafter, active shooter drills became common practice, and my children became familiar with a certain kind of awareness, in a very specific context, in a way that I never experienced as a child.
In so many ways, my time in Japan has been a revelation, a moment of respite and a time of reflection. There is no one place that checks all the boxes. Permutations of the ills that plague society (from ableism to xenophobia, racism to misogyny and everything beyond and in between) exist in every country to greater or lesser degree. I would be foolish to think otherwise. But lately when I talk about home and where home is with my family and friends, the discussion eventually comes round to a question of whether to stay rooted and bloom in place or propel gently forward like dandelion seeds in search of safe and fertile ground to grow.
A Few Things:
The assassination of former Prime Minister Shinzo Abe by gunfire is shocking. And an anomaly. Death by firearm in Japan typically falls in the single digits annually. By contrast 45,222 people died from gun-related injuries in the US in 2020. Learn more about gun deaths in the US here.
American writer and world citizen James Baldwin on living at home and abroad. 📖
An interesting look at the Lo Lifes, another late ‘80s and ’90s Brooklyn crew, notorious for boosting Polo brand clothing specifically. 🐎
Christine Pride’s essay on traveling while Black. She writes: “…the question of where I can go, and not just feel at ease but also safe, is all the more pressing. And this isn’t just a worry for Black travelers, of course, but other folks, too. Where can gay couples vacation and be safe holding hands? Where can one wear a hijab at the beach and feel perfectly relaxed? Where can an Asian-American family gather and not risk stares or worse?”
Tell Me
If you could live anywhere in the world, where would it be? Where is the most memorable place you’ve ever lived? Let’s talk about it in the comments. 🌍
Loved this essay. How we are living and how are the places where we live, is so current in most of our minds, especially as it is playing out in our day to day lives. Living in Brooklyn and New York in general, there’s a very rich bit of everything, as well as reminders of what there is not. The US as a country is extremely disturbing...as it always has been. I have always felt I could live somewhere else, but know that I am fully cosmopolitan at heart with deep appreciative time of country forests and seasides on the side. Thank you for all of the wonderful links for references that you talk about. Always enjoy this aspect of your writing. Japanese references with links provided were helpful and wonderful to learn about. Others I knew about, but loved revisiting the time and history through your links. Listened to the Studs Terkel interview with James Baldwin.....powerful, deeply insightful, as Baldwin always is. It was incredible and insightful to include that interview. America is deeply distorted and complex in the initial simplicity of its core problem. Once again, thank you for a really good read that is so expanded and rich for the references and links that you’ve taken the time to put in for your readers.✔️💥💯
I once boarded a Hankyu train in Kobe and saw about ¥15,000 in coins scattered across the bench opposite me. I rode the train for about ten stops and watched people come and go as the coins remained untouched. I miss feeling so safe, although I live in a relatively safe suburb here in the States now.